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The Year 2005 in Review
Another year has passed, it is already 2006 and we are in Brisbane, Australia.
The year has gone so fast with many adventures and we met many new people
so that it is hard to know where to start.
After spending last New Year’s holidays in San Diego with dear friends we
returned to New Zealand mid January to finish our ongoing projects on
Moonshadow. She definitely needed to be readied to go cruising. She still
needed to get a new dodger, bimini and cockpit enclosure. We needed to do
more varnishing, more varnishing and more varnishing, plus engine overhaul etc.
The year has gone so fast with many adventures and we met many new people
so that it is hard to know where to start.
After spending last New Year’s holidays in San Diego with dear friends we
returned to New Zealand mid January to finish our ongoing projects on
Moonshadow. She definitely needed to be readied to go cruising. She still
needed to get a new dodger, bimini and cockpit enclosure. We needed to do
more varnishing, more varnishing and more varnishing, plus engine overhaul etc.
New Zealand - South Island
But before we got too engrossed in projects we went on a second trip to the
South Island. Last September we had made a booking for the famous Milford
Track. This is a 4 day hike through the Southern Alps from Lake Te Anau to
the Milford Sound. A few days before we left Jackie put her back out stepping
off the boat. Gordon, a former cruiser, now a local chiropractor worked on her
until the day we left to drive to Te Anua. He predicted that she would not be
able to walk the track carrying a heavy pack. The drive down was sheer torture
But before we got too engrossed in projects we went on a second trip to the
South Island. Last September we had made a booking for the famous Milford
Track. This is a 4 day hike through the Southern Alps from Lake Te Anau to
the Milford Sound. A few days before we left Jackie put her back out stepping
off the boat. Gordon, a former cruiser, now a local chiropractor worked on her
until the day we left to drive to Te Anua. He predicted that she would not be
able to walk the track carrying a heavy pack. The drive down was sheer torture
as sitting for any length of time was very painful. However, walking the track her back
got stronger and better every day. We had 3 glorious days with blue skies and
temperatures above 30 deg C (85 deg F) every day. To avoid the heat we started
hiking a first light and then spent the afternoons swimming in the mountain streams and
spending time with our fellow hikers.
got stronger and better every day. We had 3 glorious days with blue skies and
temperatures above 30 deg C (85 deg F) every day. To avoid the heat we started
hiking a first light and then spent the afternoons swimming in the mountain streams and
spending time with our fellow hikers.
We even got to Stewart Island, at the very
southern tip of the South Island for some
fantastic nature walks. The rest of our time
on the South Island we spent revisiting some
places we went to before and exploring
some new ones. We had some pretty
spectacular hikes and spent a few interesting
days on a sheep station.
southern tip of the South Island for some
fantastic nature walks. The rest of our time
on the South Island we spent revisiting some
places we went to before and exploring
some new ones. We had some pretty
spectacular hikes and spent a few interesting
days on a sheep station.
Cruising New Zealand
On a nice April day we took our friends Simon, Angela, their kids and Patricia
and Jack on a nice calm sail and put the sailing bug into Simon and Angela.
Mid April we finally were done and left for Great Barrier Island and points
north. We had great weather and enjoyed a wonderful week in different
anchorages around the island. From here we sailed up to Whangaroa Harbor,
via the Bay of Islands, to visit with our friends Mary and Monti. We had a
lovely time with them and their friend Sandy. They even organized a Mexican
fiesta with the best Mexican food we have had outside California. They bought
our beloved Toyota van and are loving it just as we did. Before long it was
time to head down to Opua go get ready for our crossing to Fiji. Simon was to
come up and sail with us.
On a nice April day we took our friends Simon, Angela, their kids and Patricia
and Jack on a nice calm sail and put the sailing bug into Simon and Angela.
Mid April we finally were done and left for Great Barrier Island and points
north. We had great weather and enjoyed a wonderful week in different
anchorages around the island. From here we sailed up to Whangaroa Harbor,
via the Bay of Islands, to visit with our friends Mary and Monti. We had a
lovely time with them and their friend Sandy. They even organized a Mexican
fiesta with the best Mexican food we have had outside California. They bought
our beloved Toyota van and are loving it just as we did. Before long it was
time to head down to Opua go get ready for our crossing to Fiji. Simon was to
come up and sail with us.
Crossing to Fiji
After postponing our departure once because of weather we left Opua May
7th with Simon on board and his parents Jack and Patricia waving from the
dock. It was quite emotional for me, NZ was our home for 18 months and we
made some great friends and it was hard to say good-bye!
After postponing our departure once because of weather we left Opua May
7th with Simon on board and his parents Jack and Patricia waving from the
dock. It was quite emotional for me, NZ was our home for 18 months and we
made some great friends and it was hard to say good-bye!
We had a good weather window, but did get very close to a developing low
which produced some enormous waves, the perfect setting for our steering to
fail. Thank God Steven is so very handy and got it repaired as much as
possible. We couldn’t use our autopilot anymore and needed to hand steer, but
at least we could steer the boat. Thank goodness for Simon, who turned out to
be a terrific helmsman and should be recommended to the Americas Cup. It
was manageable. We arrived in Savu Savu after 8 days and all in all had a
great trip especially compared to trips boats had later in the season with
several boats lost at sea. We were met by Angela, Simon’s wife and had a few
lovely days with them.
which produced some enormous waves, the perfect setting for our steering to
fail. Thank God Steven is so very handy and got it repaired as much as
possible. We couldn’t use our autopilot anymore and needed to hand steer, but
at least we could steer the boat. Thank goodness for Simon, who turned out to
be a terrific helmsman and should be recommended to the Americas Cup. It
was manageable. We arrived in Savu Savu after 8 days and all in all had a
great trip especially compared to trips boats had later in the season with
several boats lost at sea. We were met by Angela, Simon’s wife and had a few
lovely days with them.
Fiji
We did enjoy Fiji off and on depending on the weather. Fiji is difficult to sail
because of the many reefs and inaccurate charts, but we met many lovely local
people and met up with many cruising friends we hadn’t seen in a long time.
We had great plans to go around Vanua Levu but bad weather and strong
winds prevented us from doing that and we already had some hair raising
experiences in that area and so decided to sail to the west coast and meet up
with Jeff and Deirdre.
We had a great time in Musket Cove, a great resort and again had a lovely
time with friends we hadn’t seen in a while.
We did enjoy Fiji off and on depending on the weather. Fiji is difficult to sail
because of the many reefs and inaccurate charts, but we met many lovely local
people and met up with many cruising friends we hadn’t seen in a long time.
We had great plans to go around Vanua Levu but bad weather and strong
winds prevented us from doing that and we already had some hair raising
experiences in that area and so decided to sail to the west coast and meet up
with Jeff and Deirdre.
We had a great time in Musket Cove, a great resort and again had a lovely
time with friends we hadn’t seen in a while.
Vanuatu
It was time to move on and sail to Vanuatu. Angela decided to come along and see if she
was cut out for the sailing life!!
We left August 13th and had two days of motoring and one day of terrific sailing, a bit
close to the wind but very fast.
We arrived in Tanna, Vanuatu and Angela flew out that same day.
We enjoyed Tanna despite the fact that Steven burned his foot in a boiling hot pool. That
It was time to move on and sail to Vanuatu. Angela decided to come along and see if she
was cut out for the sailing life!!
We left August 13th and had two days of motoring and one day of terrific sailing, a bit
close to the wind but very fast.
We arrived in Tanna, Vanuatu and Angela flew out that same day.
We enjoyed Tanna despite the fact that Steven burned his foot in a boiling hot pool. That
put a bit of a damper on things since he needed to keep the foot out of the
water and away from the millions of flies.
We met a few very interesting locals, traded fruit for batteries, went to see the
John From cargo cult but the highlight was going up the Yasur volcano, a very
active volcano. We got to witness lava and glowing rocks spuing up into the
air and heard tremendous explosions. It was exhilarating and extremely
interesting, what a thrill!!
water and away from the millions of flies.
We met a few very interesting locals, traded fruit for batteries, went to see the
John From cargo cult but the highlight was going up the Yasur volcano, a very
active volcano. We got to witness lava and glowing rocks spuing up into the
air and heard tremendous explosions. It was exhilarating and extremely
interesting, what a thrill!!
After Tanna we sailed up to Port
Vila on Efate, the biggest and most
modern town in Vanuatu. Modern,
Vila on Efate, the biggest and most
modern town in Vanuatu. Modern,
because of a strong French influence and therefore it features great restaurants
and very modern grocery stores. We stayed one week and had a great time
meeting up with cruising friends we hadn’t seen in a very long time, lots of
parties.
We had a wonderful time on all the islands, because Vanuatu has kept a lot of
its culture and traditions and the missionaries haven’t destroyed it completely.
In Lamen Bay on Epi Island we swam with the turtles and enjoyed the most
beautiful clear warm water. In Port Sandwich on Malakula Island we had the
calmest and most tranquil anchorage and spent some time with Esikel and his
family and were treated to tons of fruit and veggies. Esikel is a self made priest
and he held several small services for us which were very moving.
and very modern grocery stores. We stayed one week and had a great time
meeting up with cruising friends we hadn’t seen in a very long time, lots of
parties.
We had a wonderful time on all the islands, because Vanuatu has kept a lot of
its culture and traditions and the missionaries haven’t destroyed it completely.
In Lamen Bay on Epi Island we swam with the turtles and enjoyed the most
beautiful clear warm water. In Port Sandwich on Malakula Island we had the
calmest and most tranquil anchorage and spent some time with Esikel and his
family and were treated to tons of fruit and veggies. Esikel is a self made priest
and he held several small services for us which were very moving.
Next stop, Ranon Bay on Ambrym Island. Ambrym is
the woodcarving capital of Vanuatu. There are ancient
copyrights on woodcarvings, which are still being
enforced. So only some people from special tribes on
Ambrym are allowed to do carvings and all others
have to pay them a fee (pigs) to carve certain designs.
We had a fabulous time with trading for carvings and
visiting Fanla one of the most traditional areas in
Vanuatu where we met with chief Tofor. We got a
ROM (celebrating the Yam harvest) dance organized
and we and a few other cruising friends had a fabulous
experience seeing all those men, some dressed in grass
skirts, others only with a penis sheath, called a namba,
dancing to drums and chanting, wow that went deep!
We bought and traded for more woodcarvings, not
that we needed more, no, it was just hard to stop!
the woodcarving capital of Vanuatu. There are ancient
copyrights on woodcarvings, which are still being
enforced. So only some people from special tribes on
Ambrym are allowed to do carvings and all others
have to pay them a fee (pigs) to carve certain designs.
We had a fabulous time with trading for carvings and
visiting Fanla one of the most traditional areas in
Vanuatu where we met with chief Tofor. We got a
ROM (celebrating the Yam harvest) dance organized
and we and a few other cruising friends had a fabulous
experience seeing all those men, some dressed in grass
skirts, others only with a penis sheath, called a namba,
dancing to drums and chanting, wow that went deep!
We bought and traded for more woodcarvings, not
that we needed more, no, it was just hard to stop!
On we went to Homo Bay on
Pentecost famous for its land diving,
where men tie liana vines to their
ankles and jump head first from a 30-
meter man made platform, the
precursor to bungee jumping. We didn’
t get to see that because it takes place
during April and May. We met chief
Willy who directed us to go to a
custom village up in the mountains.
Pentecost famous for its land diving,
where men tie liana vines to their
ankles and jump head first from a 30-
meter man made platform, the
precursor to bungee jumping. We didn’
t get to see that because it takes place
during April and May. We met chief
Willy who directed us to go to a
custom village up in the mountains.
This visit was an absolute fabulous experience. The village chief just wearing a
namba (penis sheath) and the women grass skirts. The women giggled constantly
and touched us white women and were so amazed at our light skin and my very
blond hair. It was great fun laughing with those natives and realizing that they and
us are not so different at all.
namba (penis sheath) and the women grass skirts. The women giggled constantly
and touched us white women and were so amazed at our light skin and my very
blond hair. It was great fun laughing with those natives and realizing that they and
us are not so different at all.
Off to the next island. Asanvari on Maewo, a picturesque bay with clear blue water,
great snorkeling and fabulous people. Chief Nelson is very entrepreneurial and runs a
very smart village. They offered cooked dinners for cruisers, a great treat since there
are no restaurants except in the two bigger cities. Nixon, his son, is the good cook and
prepared scrumptious meals. And Christopher Columbus brought us daily fresh baked
bread by dugout canoe.
After Asanvari we headed a bit north to participate in a local festival. We anchored in
Narovorovo, still on Maewo and were greeted by the villagers like Kings and Queens.
We were the first boat that year and they very seldom get any boats at all. What a
treat for us.
The festival was just for us cruisers and the locals. It was something not to be missed.
great snorkeling and fabulous people. Chief Nelson is very entrepreneurial and runs a
very smart village. They offered cooked dinners for cruisers, a great treat since there
are no restaurants except in the two bigger cities. Nixon, his son, is the good cook and
prepared scrumptious meals. And Christopher Columbus brought us daily fresh baked
bread by dugout canoe.
After Asanvari we headed a bit north to participate in a local festival. We anchored in
Narovorovo, still on Maewo and were greeted by the villagers like Kings and Queens.
We were the first boat that year and they very seldom get any boats at all. What a
treat for us.
The festival was just for us cruisers and the locals. It was something not to be missed.
We met Joensly the trade school teacher and he took us under his wings. We learned a lot about their culture and their life
and how two eat various things that grow on trees.
He also told us that two years ago they had a problem with a huge salt-water croc and the famous Steve Erwin from the
Australia Zoo finally caught it. Good to know, not only do we have to watch out for the aggressive sharks, we also have to
watch out for salt crocs…..great!!
Off we sailed again after a sad good bye. We wanted to see the beautiful and spectacular waterfalls further north. We had
to anchor at Marino Bay, since Naone, where the falls are was way too rough! We again were greeted by lots of people
and David claimed us for himself and took us to the village to ask permission to go to the falls. We did get permission and
we went up to the falls with all the young men from the village. Wow that was great, because it was quite slippery at times,
but I had so many hands to guide me that nothing could go wrong. We hiked up to the top in the waterfall itself. The sight
was breathtaking and the mist very refreshing. Some of the adventurous guys jumped down into one of the pools,
incredible!!
Our hike home was pleasant and David picked us fresh grapefruit (the size of soccer balls) to take home. We took the
dinghy back to his house, which was at a most picturesque location. We brought him and his family some presents and
pictures we had take that day, which made them smile.
It was time to cross over to Espiritu Santo, the largest island of Vanuatu. We
left early in the morning to be able to sail the 60 nautical miles and arrive at the
other side in good light. We had good wind, too much at times and we had an
unfortunate thing happen. Our mainsail traveler let go and the mainsail went
flying! So we wrestled the main back in and dropped it and sailed just under
Genoa. It was a very rough crossing and we were tired and glad to reach
Peterson Bay.
There it was tricky to go between several reefs to get into the bay, but we
managed without hitting anything and were rewarded with a beautiful anchorage.
We stayed several days and went to explore the two rivers that lead up to a
blue hole.
left early in the morning to be able to sail the 60 nautical miles and arrive at the
other side in good light. We had good wind, too much at times and we had an
unfortunate thing happen. Our mainsail traveler let go and the mainsail went
flying! So we wrestled the main back in and dropped it and sailed just under
Genoa. It was a very rough crossing and we were tired and glad to reach
Peterson Bay.
There it was tricky to go between several reefs to get into the bay, but we
managed without hitting anything and were rewarded with a beautiful anchorage.
We stayed several days and went to explore the two rivers that lead up to a
blue hole.
It was so incredible that we did the one river every day and went swimming in the blue hole. The quiet river cutting through
mangroves and under low hanging branches up to the most spectacular, literally blue colored water.
After that wonderful time in Peterson Bay we headed for Luganville, the second biggest city in Vanuatu. Well it doesn’t
even come close to Port Vila! Luganville is a one street city with lots of Chinese stores that all sell the same cheap
merchandise. Luganville is where, during World War II, 100,000 US troops established one of the main bases in the
Pacific. They constructed a complete city with 3 airfields. Most of this is now gone but in central Luganville many of the
buildings date back to this era.
We picked up a mooring ball at the Aore Resort, a lovely spot across the Segondo Channel from town. Now came the
task of getting ready for our trip to Australia. A few minor repairs needed doing and meals had to be pre-cooked. Simon
came again as crew for the trip to Oz.
mangroves and under low hanging branches up to the most spectacular, literally blue colored water.
After that wonderful time in Peterson Bay we headed for Luganville, the second biggest city in Vanuatu. Well it doesn’t
even come close to Port Vila! Luganville is a one street city with lots of Chinese stores that all sell the same cheap
merchandise. Luganville is where, during World War II, 100,000 US troops established one of the main bases in the
Pacific. They constructed a complete city with 3 airfields. Most of this is now gone but in central Luganville many of the
buildings date back to this era.
We picked up a mooring ball at the Aore Resort, a lovely spot across the Segondo Channel from town. Now came the
task of getting ready for our trip to Australia. A few minor repairs needed doing and meals had to be pre-cooked. Simon
came again as crew for the trip to Oz.
Port-2-port rally to Australia
We left Vanuatu on October 24th headed for Chesterfield Reef, which lies
about half way between Vanuatu and Australia.We had good wind, at times
too much and almost got knocked over in a 50+ knots squall.
Seeing Chesterfield was breathtakingly beautiful and we anchored next to the
other cruisers that participated in the Port-to-Port Rally. We had 13 boats
anchored in front of a few small sandy islands out in the middle of the Pacific.
We left Vanuatu on October 24th headed for Chesterfield Reef, which lies
about half way between Vanuatu and Australia.We had good wind, at times
too much and almost got knocked over in a 50+ knots squall.
Seeing Chesterfield was breathtakingly beautiful and we anchored next to the
other cruisers that participated in the Port-to-Port Rally. We had 13 boats
anchored in front of a few small sandy islands out in the middle of the Pacific.
We had a BBQ on the beach and walked between booby birds and their fluffy
chicks, incredible. There were many turtle tracks as it was the season for them
to come ashore and lay their eggs. These are the same turtles traveling the East
Australian Current in “Finding Nemo”.
chicks, incredible. There were many turtle tracks as it was the season for them
to come ashore and lay their eggs. These are the same turtles traveling the East
Australian Current in “Finding Nemo”.
We just stayed one night and were off to Bundaberg, where the famous rum
comes from. The rest of the trip was just great sailing and we have to say,
apart form the one squally day we had the best trip ever. Once again Simon
proved to be the best crew we ever had.
We got into Bundy Nov. 1st, at nine in the morning, great! Angela, Simon’s
wife came again and welcomed us after a tedious clearance procedure. It was
Goofy our cat that made it more complicated.
We had a fun week with Simon and Angela and the many Port-to-Port parties.
Then they left for NZ and we anchored Moonshadow up the river right next to
the town of Bundaberg.
We could not go into the marina because quarantine officials were afraid
Goofy might escape, what a joke. Since we decided to sell Moonshadow and
return to San Diego it made sense to send him there now. Our dear friends
Gail and Daniel are taking care of him now and he has settled into the
California lifestyle. He is well taken care of and has the run of the house and
garden and even sleeps in their bed (they let him). I am forever thankful to Gail
and Daniel for giving him a home until we get back.
comes from. The rest of the trip was just great sailing and we have to say,
apart form the one squally day we had the best trip ever. Once again Simon
proved to be the best crew we ever had.
We got into Bundy Nov. 1st, at nine in the morning, great! Angela, Simon’s
wife came again and welcomed us after a tedious clearance procedure. It was
Goofy our cat that made it more complicated.
We had a fun week with Simon and Angela and the many Port-to-Port parties.
Then they left for NZ and we anchored Moonshadow up the river right next to
the town of Bundaberg.
We could not go into the marina because quarantine officials were afraid
Goofy might escape, what a joke. Since we decided to sell Moonshadow and
return to San Diego it made sense to send him there now. Our dear friends
Gail and Daniel are taking care of him now and he has settled into the
California lifestyle. He is well taken care of and has the run of the house and
garden and even sleeps in their bed (they let him). I am forever thankful to Gail
and Daniel for giving him a home until we get back.
We are now in Scarborough near Brisbane and Moonshadow is for sale. We
are sad, but had enough of sailing for a while and want to do other things, like
work!!! At least for a while.
For the holidays we flew to New Zealand and met up with Mary and Monti
and our cruising friends Deirdre and Jeff from Vesper and Iretta and Steve
from Rigo. It was great to be together again and reminisce about cruising times.
are sad, but had enough of sailing for a while and want to do other things, like
work!!! At least for a while.
For the holidays we flew to New Zealand and met up with Mary and Monti
and our cruising friends Deirdre and Jeff from Vesper and Iretta and Steve
from Rigo. It was great to be together again and reminisce about cruising times.
Then we went down to Tauranga, our second home, to spend Christmas
and New Years with Simon, Angela, the kids and rest of the family. We had
a super time and it was so nice to be part of the family. Sadly we said
good-bye and flew back to Brisbane into the big heat!
Boy is it hot here and humid, worse then Central America.
We are still beautifying Moonshadow, like painting the cockpit and fore
deck and varnishing the woodwork. Soon we will take off by car and go
south to Tasmania, where it is much much cooler.
We are still hoping for many more adventures to come, maybe more on land
then at sea, but we still want to continue exploring the rest of the world and
its cultures.
and New Years with Simon, Angela, the kids and rest of the family. We had
a super time and it was so nice to be part of the family. Sadly we said
good-bye and flew back to Brisbane into the big heat!
Boy is it hot here and humid, worse then Central America.
We are still beautifying Moonshadow, like painting the cockpit and fore
deck and varnishing the woodwork. Soon we will take off by car and go
south to Tasmania, where it is much much cooler.
We are still hoping for many more adventures to come, maybe more on land
then at sea, but we still want to continue exploring the rest of the world and
its cultures.
| With the best wishes for 2006 and beyond from the crew of Moonshadow |
